Gene Meredith of Scooters Originali filled me on the history of my TV:
"History: the TV was imported directly from Italy, from a frenchman who lived there and would collect scooters and then sell them by the container. We only bought one container from him as his description of "all of them run" was far from the truth and there were issues with many of them. The Vespas were worse than the Lambrettas - it is nice to see that Lambretta finally being put back on the road!"
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
How to clean engine cases and guts
One important thing I learned when researching "how to's" with scooter restoration is people sometimes accidently mislead you and the affect on their instructions turns out to be negative; therefore I speak with multiple people before doing anything at all and I look for patterns. If 3 of 5 people tell me the same thing, I tend to trust them most and then take action.
From my previous restoration, I have collected a few mentors and I always ask them what their opinions are . . . more times than not they all say the same thing.
I make sure to always post everything that I learned so you guys know the options that are out there or can comment on which method to avoid and which you prefer and why.
I want to know the best way to clean the engine cases and guts of the engine to make it look as close to stock as possible and to be as gentle as possible on the cases. This is the question I sent them: "I wanted to ask you guys if using simple regular gasoline and a copper bristle brush would be the best way to clean the engine cases and the internals? Suggestions for cheap and SAFE way to do this?" Here is what I have learned so far:
Christopher Markley says:
"Get some reduced odor paint thinner. Works nicely. Some swear by orange cleaner or simple green. I've found they can be tough on aluminum. Maybe it's just the brands I've used. You don't want to pit seal surfaces. Try the paint thinner -- low odor variety (low odor is a relative, marketing term!!)."
Stu Werner says:
"I use kerosene and a five gallon bucket a third full. Not gas. I reuse it when it gets real dirty by straining it through a t-shirt. If you have the cases stripped you can get the case, case side glass bead blasted. They clean up real nice that way."
Tom G. says:
"But frankly, the solvent (gas is fine -- I keep a container of used brake cleaner hanging around for this purpose also) is going
to do most of the work, so paintbrushes and toothbrushes are good enough for this."
I posted this question on LCUSA as well and Mike Analt responded. He has given me some great information so far. This is what he recommended.
"I find the best way to clean cases is to have them soda blasted then follow them up with some white vinegar. The wash with hot water. You end up a very factory look about them.
There is a guy local to me that does all my blasting needs (baking soda or glass). I have him blast the cases, cylinders, frames, body work etc. he's really good. Soda for sensitive parts (all alloy) or just paint stripping. Glass for rusty cylinders and frames. For internal parts I use carb cleaner, compressed air and paper towels. I just posted a link to a glass blaster mounted to a pressure washer. When I get through the holidays I'll look in to picking one up. It should give the parts the freshly vapor blasted look."
For a deeper understanding . . . sodablasting is a process where sodium bicarbonate is applied against a surface using compressed air. It was first used to restore the Statue of Liberty. Sodablasting is a non-destructive method for many applications in cleaning, paint stripping, automotive restoration, industrial equipment maintenance, rust removal, graffiti removal, molecular steel passivation against rust, oil removal by saponification and translocation, masonry cleaning and restoration, soot remediation, boat hull cleaning, food processing facilities and equipment.
Another option from LCUSA member Brianxyl:
"After several engine rebuild projects I've kind of got a system now. Groaty engine cases and internals clean up great with purple or orange degreaser. Big positive for using this over gasoline or other solvents is that it doesn't stink, isn't carcinogenic or flammable, and you can use it indoors. Way cheaper than taking parts to any outside blasting service. Yes, it does tend to darken aluminum (only the outsides of cases for some reason) but my next step is to use a soft wire wheel on the cases to make them look just-cast fresh. I made a craptastic parts dryer by cutting two holes in a cardboard box and shoving a hairdryer in one of them. It'll dry the water out of cranks etc before anything can flash rust. Great for when painting small parts as well."
More to follow . . . pictures and my final decision on how to tackle this part of the job.
From my previous restoration, I have collected a few mentors and I always ask them what their opinions are . . . more times than not they all say the same thing.
I make sure to always post everything that I learned so you guys know the options that are out there or can comment on which method to avoid and which you prefer and why.
I want to know the best way to clean the engine cases and guts of the engine to make it look as close to stock as possible and to be as gentle as possible on the cases. This is the question I sent them: "I wanted to ask you guys if using simple regular gasoline and a copper bristle brush would be the best way to clean the engine cases and the internals? Suggestions for cheap and SAFE way to do this?" Here is what I have learned so far:
Christopher Markley says:
"Get some reduced odor paint thinner. Works nicely. Some swear by orange cleaner or simple green. I've found they can be tough on aluminum. Maybe it's just the brands I've used. You don't want to pit seal surfaces. Try the paint thinner -- low odor variety (low odor is a relative, marketing term!!)."
Stu Werner says:
"I use kerosene and a five gallon bucket a third full. Not gas. I reuse it when it gets real dirty by straining it through a t-shirt. If you have the cases stripped you can get the case, case side glass bead blasted. They clean up real nice that way."
Tom G. says:
"But frankly, the solvent (gas is fine -- I keep a container of used brake cleaner hanging around for this purpose also) is going
to do most of the work, so paintbrushes and toothbrushes are good enough for this."
I posted this question on LCUSA as well and Mike Analt responded. He has given me some great information so far. This is what he recommended.
"I find the best way to clean cases is to have them soda blasted then follow them up with some white vinegar. The wash with hot water. You end up a very factory look about them.
There is a guy local to me that does all my blasting needs (baking soda or glass). I have him blast the cases, cylinders, frames, body work etc. he's really good. Soda for sensitive parts (all alloy) or just paint stripping. Glass for rusty cylinders and frames. For internal parts I use carb cleaner, compressed air and paper towels. I just posted a link to a glass blaster mounted to a pressure washer. When I get through the holidays I'll look in to picking one up. It should give the parts the freshly vapor blasted look."
For a deeper understanding . . . sodablasting is a process where sodium bicarbonate is applied against a surface using compressed air. It was first used to restore the Statue of Liberty. Sodablasting is a non-destructive method for many applications in cleaning, paint stripping, automotive restoration, industrial equipment maintenance, rust removal, graffiti removal, molecular steel passivation against rust, oil removal by saponification and translocation, masonry cleaning and restoration, soot remediation, boat hull cleaning, food processing facilities and equipment.
Another option from LCUSA member Brianxyl:
"After several engine rebuild projects I've kind of got a system now. Groaty engine cases and internals clean up great with purple or orange degreaser. Big positive for using this over gasoline or other solvents is that it doesn't stink, isn't carcinogenic or flammable, and you can use it indoors. Way cheaper than taking parts to any outside blasting service. Yes, it does tend to darken aluminum (only the outsides of cases for some reason) but my next step is to use a soft wire wheel on the cases to make them look just-cast fresh. I made a craptastic parts dryer by cutting two holes in a cardboard box and shoving a hairdryer in one of them. It'll dry the water out of cranks etc before anything can flash rust. Great for when painting small parts as well."
More to follow . . . pictures and my final decision on how to tackle this part of the job.
This official launch of this blog
This the official launch of this blog . . .
Up until now I have put little to no effort into this blog, because of a host of reasons, such as completing my the restoration of my wife's 1967 Vespa SS180 and documenting the whole thing over two years on this blog.
A little over two years ago I began researching how to restore a scooter. I spent hundreds of hours talking with people, using forums, reading books, etc. I was bummed that there was not a blog or website where a meticulous person documented everything s/he learned about restoration and presenting the different options to the readers -- something really in-depth. I could not (and still can not) find this website; therefore I made it. I documented everything I learned and called ATTENTION to all of my mistakes to take the frustration out of restoration for newbies and novices as well as to share technical information on the specific model.
So here I go again, beginning the restoration process of my 1962 TV175 S.3 a little smarter than last time. I will share each step of the way you with guys. As always I welcome/request comments.
Up until now I have put little to no effort into this blog, because of a host of reasons, such as completing my the restoration of my wife's 1967 Vespa SS180 and documenting the whole thing over two years on this blog.
A little over two years ago I began researching how to restore a scooter. I spent hundreds of hours talking with people, using forums, reading books, etc. I was bummed that there was not a blog or website where a meticulous person documented everything s/he learned about restoration and presenting the different options to the readers -- something really in-depth. I could not (and still can not) find this website; therefore I made it. I documented everything I learned and called ATTENTION to all of my mistakes to take the frustration out of restoration for newbies and novices as well as to share technical information on the specific model.
So here I go again, beginning the restoration process of my 1962 TV175 S.3 a little smarter than last time. I will share each step of the way you with guys. As always I welcome/request comments.
Sunday, November 2, 2008
First order placed
For my 35th birthday, my wife got me started on my restoration. She started me off with a membership to Lambretta Club USA. She also bought me the Spanner's Manual, which I have heard is a MUST own.
I have never rebuilt an engine before and I asked Stu Werner what he thought of this "how to" DVD. His thought is that all resources will help. This DVD covers the removal, full nuts and bolts engine rebuild, and how to get it running. It covers all three series Lammys, which is nice since I would like to buy my wife a Series I or II. I have two TV engines to rebuild and this will be the first step I take in restoring the scoot.
Seeing as we just bought a house this month, things are going to be tight for us for a while and therefore it will take me quite some time to restore this bike because of budgetary issues. So it goes. Good things come to those who wait. I ordered all my parts from Scooters Originali, NJ, and instead of paying shipping I decided to be smart and order the gasket set for one engine now. I only needed to spend $8.50 more to avoid the shipping fee and why not just get something I know I need anyway.Here's to the long haul ahead of me.
Total for order: $114.00
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Update
The TV175 is in storage in San Francisco -- it's new home.
The Vespa SS180 is 99.9% restored and when I have funds I will begin to purchase parts for the TV175. First I need to title it and begin researching the particulars for this bike.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Determining if parts are correct
There are a few parts that Stu and I are uncertain about and it's very important to me that I do not restore a hotchpotch Lammy. I want it as stock as possible, minus the motor upgrade.
The gas tank came from a 1964 series III. Stu believes that it is a centimeter or two larger than the one would be for a 1962 tank -- which is the year of my scoot.
Stu got this info from Stickey's book. I emailed Mike Analt about this, but he thinks the gas tank might actually be the correct size since the 1962 TV he just restored has a gas tank a hair small.
Stu said the headset is correct and he pulled it off and sprayed it blue for race team when he was in a pinch.
So you are looking at the stock headset.
There are spray drips on the bottom/underside of the headset, which suggest to me at some point it may have been rattle canned, but I don't know for sure.
The flywheel cover is incorrect. This is from a series II, which is close in size for the TV I have, but it requires two stamps of some sort to make it look 100% authentic.
I need to talk with Stu/Mike about that in more detail as well as read up about it in Stickey's book as well. I need to buy that book sooner than later.
I was really concerned that my floor boards were GP. They are silver and do not match any color on the the TV, except for the Li steering column I have (with the TV shocks hooks welded on as Stu's machinist destroyed the TV steering column to point of non usable. People won't be able to tell the difference though). In speaking with Mike, he thinks that I may have series III Li or TV floor boards.
I need to confirm that before I begin working on the bike. Again Stickey's book would provide me with the answer.
In any case I did speak with a guy who would trade me TV floorboards for mine if indeed I have GP. My floorboards are in excellent condition.
The gas tank came from a 1964 series III. Stu believes that it is a centimeter or two larger than the one would be for a 1962 tank -- which is the year of my scoot.
Stu got this info from Stickey's book. I emailed Mike Analt about this, but he thinks the gas tank might actually be the correct size since the 1962 TV he just restored has a gas tank a hair small.
Stu said the headset is correct and he pulled it off and sprayed it blue for race team when he was in a pinch.
So you are looking at the stock headset.
There are spray drips on the bottom/underside of the headset, which suggest to me at some point it may have been rattle canned, but I don't know for sure.
The flywheel cover is incorrect. This is from a series II, which is close in size for the TV I have, but it requires two stamps of some sort to make it look 100% authentic.
I need to talk with Stu/Mike about that in more detail as well as read up about it in Stickey's book as well. I need to buy that book sooner than later.
I was really concerned that my floor boards were GP. They are silver and do not match any color on the the TV, except for the Li steering column I have (with the TV shocks hooks welded on as Stu's machinist destroyed the TV steering column to point of non usable. People won't be able to tell the difference though). In speaking with Mike, he thinks that I may have series III Li or TV floor boards.
I need to confirm that before I begin working on the bike. Again Stickey's book would provide me with the answer.
In any case I did speak with a guy who would trade me TV floorboards for mine if indeed I have GP. My floorboards are in excellent condition.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Reference: TV175
I found this TV175 S.3 posted on lambretta.org by Alex from Casa (I believe) and took the pictures so I can reference them when I begin restoring my TV. The more pictures I can get, especially stock, the better because they really help you be specific about what does and does not go on your bike or what should be painted a certain color or not. It helps keep you period specific or true.
This bike is either a 1962 or 1963. You can tell by the cowls -- no chrome finishers it just reads Lambretta. My TV is a 1962. I personally prefer how the earlier Series III look for the TV. It's cleaner in my opinion. Not too much going on.
You can sort off see the stock switch-side perch in the picture below. Not super easy to find original ones of those, but I was lucky and did find one.
The seat and frame I have are in near mint condition, but in red. My seat frame looks similar to the one below in quality.
This bike is either a 1962 or 1963. You can tell by the cowls -- no chrome finishers it just reads Lambretta. My TV is a 1962. I personally prefer how the earlier Series III look for the TV. It's cleaner in my opinion. Not too much going on.
You can sort off see the stock switch-side perch in the picture below. Not super easy to find original ones of those, but I was lucky and did find one.
The seat and frame I have are in near mint condition, but in red. My seat frame looks similar to the one below in quality.
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