Sunday, January 23, 2011

Replace kick start shaft

For the past year or two I have looked for the original kickstart shaft. Mine was welded on my engine. I have the early Li style -- aka the weak one. After hunting and hunting I found one.Mike in Portland, Oregon sold me his. The teeth look good, but I do notice some difference and wonder if that could be a problem or not? For example in the photo below -- my original is on the left. The one I bought looks like it was ground down and is missing the lip. Is that a problem?
Here's another view of the ground down area.

When you look at that area closely, you can see that the lathe left perfect circles in my mine a then with use, I assume that mine was worn down on half of the area.

As you can see the teeth are much better on the replacement kickstart shaft, but when you look very closely at the geared area you can see very subtle differences as if these were not cast from the same mold.
Continuing with the idea of different molds for the casts notice the difference in thickness of the bases pictured below and the overall slopes of the raised areas. Could this mean these are different shafts? The measurements are almost dead even and the later type Li and the GP styles measure totally different as per Stickey's Manual.
Looking at the two side-by-side you can see differences.
I will ask my mentors to make sure I did not buy the wrong kickstart shaft.

Follow-up:

My mentor Mike said:
"The replacement kick start shaft will be fine. Remember to replace the locating pin on the plunger when you install it in the new case. Make sure all is clean and well greased.

The grinding is so the shaft doesn't rub on the clutch basket. This happens when the bushings work their way in to the motor,an incorrectly shimmed clutch or an incorrectly shimmed kickstart shaft. By grinding it, it gives the motor a little bit of room for error when things wear out. Don't over grind because it will weaken it.

As long as the dimensional measurements are the same on the kick shaft you are OK."

2 comments:

Mods & Rockers said...

Not sure what's going on there, but you'll know if it is going to work by putting it into the chaincase cover. I opted to upgrade my S2 cover to accept the GP kickstart (which still accepts the s2 lever). The GP lever is stronger and less likely to give under high compression motors.

The original Innocenti lever is stamped so there is one way to tell. Also they are finally re-making the li/sx pattern kickstart shaft so if you have reserves you could always just go new.

Mods & Rockers said...

Judging by the thinner base it could also be a S2 shaft you just bought, I'd check the sticky's book to be sure. If it has been determined to be a weaker/inferior version than the one intended than I would certainly get a new pattern replacement and sell that one to an anorak.

Overbuild the bottom end of your motor. If you need a flywheel and a crank, than push it to the gp taper, use better chainguides, etc.

The reason is if you build your bottom end to take the abuse of a hotter motor than stock, it is far less likely to cause you trouble with a stock top-end.